January 24, 2018

How to make Simple Saree Blouse with Basque (patti)? FREE Pattern

In my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also some simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree BlouseStand "V" Saree Blouse and Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse.
In this post, I will explain yet another simple and basic saree blouse pattern which was requested by one of the follower. The pattern is of Basic Saree Blouse with Basque (patti).

So let's start with it's step-wise pattern making.


* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

Fabric used:- For making a basic saree blouse with basque, blouse fabric should be matching to saree. You can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric.

To make a Saree Blouse with Basque (patti) and sleeve, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.

Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve length  - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of drafting:-
BACK -
0-1 = Length of front + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart - 
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/8 Round Bust
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart
0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-14 = 1/8 Round Bust

Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam


FRONT -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 1 cm
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 6 cms

0-14 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
0-18 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-19 = 1/10 Round Bust (neck depth)

Side seam Dart -
4-20 = 1/8 Round Bust
20-21 = 2 cms (dart width)
21-22 = Midpoint of 20-21
22-23 = 1/8 Round Bust + 3 cms
Join 20-23-21 in slant line for dart

Centre Front Dart -
3-24 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
24-25 = 2 cms (dart width)
25-26 = Midpoint of 24-25
26-27 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 24-27-25 in slant line for dart

Basque -
2-7 = 1/10 Round Bust
2-8 =  1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms
8-9 = 1/16 Round Bust
7-9 = Join with slight curve line as shown

Waist Dart -
7-10 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
10-11 = 4 cms (dart width)
10-12 = Midpoint of 10-11
12-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 10-13-11 in slant line for dart

SLEEVE -
STEP-1 - Make the sleeve pattern on folded paper.
0-1 = Length of Sleeve + 1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 2 cms
3-4 & 2-4 = Join points
1-5 = Draw straight line
3-6 = 1/10 Round Chest + 1 cm
1-7 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points
6-9 & 0-10 = 1/4 of 0-6
10-11 = 2 cms
9-12 = 2 cms
6-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-13 (Back sleeve curve)
Join 0-12-6 (Front sleeve curve)
Join 6-7-8 for Sleeve side seam
STEP-2 - Open the folded paper to cut the front curve (see image)
STEP-3 - Final sleeve pattern with Front and Back curve.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

* It is a very basic blouse pattern with sleeve. However, once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below.☺


I hope this post was helpful to you.

Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
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**********************

January 17, 2018

How to make a Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse? FREE Pattern

Raglan sleeve style of saree blouse does not have sleeves attached to arm curve unlike other basic saree blouses. These sleeves are attached to front and back of blouse starting either from 1/3rd or half of neckline shape to either 1/3rd or below armhole curve. [According to Wikipedia, the word 'Raglan sleeve' is named after Lord Raglan, who is said to have worn a coat with this style of sleeve after the loss of his arm in the Battle of Waterloo. The Raglan sleeve was invented by a coat producer Aquascutum for Lord Raglan to allow him room to use his sword in battle.] 


Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also some simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree BlouseSaree Blouse with Back SmockingHigh Neck Saree Blouse and Stand "V" Saree Blouse.

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make Raglan Sleeve Saree Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements.
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.


Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve length  - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of Drafting


BACK -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest + 1 cm
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms

Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
0-11 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-12 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cm (neck depth)
10-13 = 0.5 cm
11-14 = 1/10 Round Bust (for Raglan shaping)
0-15 = Sleeve length (including shoulder) + 1 cm
11-16 = Draw line by keeping ruler / scale on 11-13 [refer image]
16-17 = 1/2 Round arm + 2 cms
3-14 = Join points with slant line [refer image]
3-18 = 1/3rd of 3-14
18-19 = up by 2 cms
18-20 = down by 2 cms
3-21 = 2 cms on slant line [refer image]
21-22 = up by 2 cms
21-23 = down by 2 cms

For Raglan Sleeve -
Join 14-19-21-23 with curve (refer image);
23-17 with slight curve shaping;

For Back of blouse -
Join 14-20-21-22 with curve (refer image);
22-3-5 for side seam



FRONT -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest + 1 cm
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 5 cms

0-7 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
0-8 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-9 = 1/10 Round Bust (neck depth)
9-10 = 1/10 Round Bust (for Raglan shaping)
7-11 = 0.5 cm
0-12 = Sleeve length (including shoulder) + 1 cm
8-13 = Draw line by keeping ruler / scale on 8-11 [refer image]
13-14 = 1/2 Round arm + 2 cms
10-4 = Join points with slant line [refer image]
4-15 = 1/3rd of 4-10
15-16 = up by 2.5 cms
15-17 = down by 2.5 cms
4-18 = 2 cms on slant line [refer image]
18-19 = up by 2 cms
18-20 = down by 2 cms

For Raglan Sleeve -
Join 10-16-18-20 with curve (refer image);
20-14 with slight curve shaping;

For Front of blouse -
Join 10-17-18-20 with curve (refer image);
19-4-6 for side seam

Side seam Dart -
5-21 = 1/8 Round Bust
21-22 = 2 cms (dart width)
22-23 = Midpoint of 21-22
23-24 = 1/8 Round Bust + 3 cms
Join 21-24-22 in slant line for dart

Centre Front Dart -
3-25 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
25-26 = 2 cms (dart width)
26-27 = Midpoint of 25-26
27-28 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 25-28-26 in slant line for dart

Basque -
2-29 = 1/10 Round Bust
2-30 =  1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms
30-31 = 1/16 Round Bust
29-31 = Join with slight curve line as shown

Waist Dart -
29-32 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
32-33 = 4 cms (dart width)
33-34 = Midpoint of 32-33
34-35 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 32-35-33 in slant line for dart

Raglan Sleeve tracing -
  1. For making Raglan sleeve draft trace following pieces from Front and Back draft given above:-from Back draft trace 11-14-23-17-16-11 & from Front draft trace 8-10-20-14-13-8
  2. To complete the Raglan sleeve pattern, keep these traced pieces of Front & Back of sleeve on either sides of a straight line as shown in below image.

- Along with the Raglan sleeve pattern, also trace Back draft of blouse, Front draft of blouse and Basque piece separately before placement on fabric as shown in below image.
Fabric used:- For making a Raglan sleeve blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are beginner, prefer using pure cotton fabric for making this style of blouse.

You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with different types of necklines; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a stylized blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, Google+ or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this or any other post/tutorial given in the blog. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!

December 28, 2017

How to make a Shirt style Blouse? FREE Pattern

Shirt style Blouse can be combined with Skirt, Trousers or Jeans. Since this style of blouse has collar and hem shaping as shirt, it is called as the Shirt style Blouse.

In this post I have shown stepwise pattern making of Shirt style Blouse. This Blouse will have a basic Sleeve, Shirt collar pattern with rounded corners and will be till hip length. You can always do a variation in the sleeve length. This style of blouse will have side seam oblique dart in front and waist darts in both front and back.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a Shirt style Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results.
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements.
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse (till hip) - Measure from the centre of the front shoulder passing over the bust point to hipline. *Length of this blouse style is till hips.
2. Length till Waist - Measure from the centre of the front shoulder passing over the bust point to the waistline.
3. Round Neck - Measure around the neck touching front collar bone moderately tight.
4. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
5. Round Waist - Measure around the body and below the bust.
6. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
7. Sleeve length  - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
8. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.

Steps of Drafting

Shirt style Blouse pattern
FRONT
0-1 = Length of Blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = down by 2 cms
0-3 = towards left by 2 cms
3-4 = draw straight line down till 1
3-5 = 1/5 Round Bust + 1 cm
3-6 = Length till Waist + 1 cm
5-7 = 1/4 Round Bust + 1 cm
7-8 & 2-8 = Join points by drawing lines
1-9 = draw parallel line to 2-8
6-10 = draw horizontal line
10-11 = towards right by 2 cms
9-12 = 1/10 Round Bust
12-13 = towards right by 2 cms

Waist dart:-
6-14 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
14-15 = 2 cms (dart width)
15-16 =  Midpoint of 14-15
16-17 & 16-18 = 1/8 Round Bust (dart length)
Join 14-18-15-17 & 17-16-18 to form a dart

Side seam dart:-
11-19 = 1/16 Round Bust
19-20 = 2 cms (dart width)
20-21 = Midpoint of 19-20
21-22 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2cms (dart length)
Join 19-22-20 & 21-22 to form a dart

3-23 Shoulder + 0.5 cm
23-24 = draw straight line down
23-25 = down by 2.5 cms
24-26 = up by 3 cms
3-27 = 1/5 Round Neck - 1 cm
0-28 = 1/5 Round Neck - 1 cm
Join 28-27 (front neck)
27-25 (front shoulder)
25-26-7 (front armhole)
7-11-12-13 (front side seam)
13-2 (front shaped hemline)

BACK
3-29 = down by 1 cm (for back neck curve)
27-30 = up by 2 cms
25-31 = up by 2 cms
26-32 = 1.5 cms (for back armhole curve)
Join 29-30 (back neck)
30-31 (back shoulder)
31-32-7 (back armhole)
7-11-12-13 (back side seam)
13-4 (back shaped hemline)


Shirt Collar (with rounded corners)
0-1 =  5 cms
1-2 = 5 cms
2-3 = 1/2 Round Neck + 0.5 cm
Join 3-4 & 0-4
3-5 = 3.5 cms
Join 5-6 & 1-6
4-7 = 5 cms
7-8 = down by 0.5 cm
5-9 = up by 2 cms
6-10 = towards right by 0.5 cm
4-11 = towards left by 3 cms
8-12 = Length of collar corner (i.e. 9 cms) +  1 cm
[*it's a slant line passing through 11]
0-13 = Midpoint of 0-4
2-14 = up by 1 cm
3-15 = 1/3 of 2-3
1-16 = up by 0.5 cm
Join 16, 8, 12, 13, 0, 16 for Collar piece &
join 8, 10, 9, 15, 14, 16, 8 for Stand piece


Basic Sleeve
0-1 = Sleeve length +  1 cm
1-2 = 3 cms (self folding hem)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 3-4 & 2-4
3-5 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1.5 cms
1-6 = 1/2 Round Arm + 2 cms
Join 6-7 & 2-7
Join 0-5 in slant line
0-8 = 1/4 of 0-5
5-9 = 1/4 of 0-5
9-10 = draw perpendicular of 2 cms downwards
8-11 = draw perpendicular of 2 cms upwards
5-12 = 2 cms
Join 0-11-12-5 (back curve)
0-8-10-12-5 (front curve)
5-6-7 (side seam)

Fabric used:- For making a Shirt style blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Satin, Voile etc. However, if you are beginner, prefer using pure cotton fabric for making this style of blouse. Length of fabric should be 2.5 meters and width can be 36" (for Small / Medium size) & 44" / 48" (for Large / XL size).

You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a simple blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, Google+ or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 


I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this or any other post/tutorial given in the blog. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!

December 19, 2017

How to make Stand "V" Saree Blouse? FREE Pattern

Hi everyone,

Hope you all enjoyed my earlier post on High Neck Saree Blouse with armhole princess line. In this post, I will be sharing yet another style of saree blouse pattern named Stand "V" blouse

In this style of saree blouse, the back of blouse neckline is cut from nape of back (i.e. back neck bone). Front of blouse neckline is given a "V" shape and a stand piece is stitched around the neck, hence the name, "Stand 'V' Blouse". I have combined this pattern with Mutton Puff sleeve style.


Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also some simple stylized Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse, Saree Blouse with Back Smocking and High Neck Saree Blouse.

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized Stand "V" Saree Blouse.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a stylized Stand "V" Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Sleeve length  - Measure the length by keeping the measure tape from neck over shoulder till the fullest part of arm.
7. Round Arm - Measure around the fullest part of the arm which is between the shoulder and the elbow.
8. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of drafting:- 

BACK -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms
Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/10 Round Bust
0-14 = 1 cm

Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam



FRONT -
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart -
2-7 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
7-8 = 4 cms (dart width)
7-9 = Midpoint of 7-8
9-10 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 8-10-7 in slant line for dart

0-11 & 3-12 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
11-12 = Join in straight line
11-13 = Down by 2 cms
12-14 = Up by 2.5 cms

Neckline marking -
0-15 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1.5 cms
15-16 = 1 cm towards left
16-17 = 4 cms towards right (stand piece)
17-18 = 1/10 Round Bust (go slant up)
16-19 = 1/10 Round Bust (parallel to 17-18)
3-20 = Down by 3 cms
Join 20-17-18 to mark 'V' neck shape

Join 13-16 for Shoulder
Join 4-14-13 for Arm curve &
Join 4-6 for Side seam

Side seam Dart -
4-21 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
21-22 = 2 cms (dart width)
22-23 = Midpoint of 21-22
23-24 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 21-24-22 in slant line for dart

Centre Front Dart -
3-25 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
25-26 = 2 cms (dart width)
26-27 = Midpoint of 25-26
27-28 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 25-28-26 in slant line for dart



MUTTON PUFF SLEEVE -
0-1 = 4 cms
1-2 = Sleeve length + 1 cm
2-3 = 4 cms (sleeve hem shaping)
0-4 = 1/5 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 4-5 and 2-5 as shown in image
1-6 draw line parallel to 0-4
6-7 = 1/10 Round Chest + 2 cms
2-8 = 1/2 Round Arm + 6 cms
0-7 = Join with slant line
0-9 = 1/4 of 0-7
7-10 = 1/4 of 0-7
10-11 = 2 cms perpendicular
9-12 = 3 cms perpendicular
7-13 = 2 cms
Join 0-12-13-7 for back sleeve curve &
Join 0-11-13 for front sleeve curve
Join 8-13 for sleeve side seam

Dart on sleeve hem -
3-14 = 1cm
14-15 = 1.5 cms
15-16 = 2 cms
16-17 = Midpoint of 15-16
3-18 = 1/10 Round Bust
17-19 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1cm
Join 15-19-16 to form a dart &
Join 14-18 to form a dart

Fabric used:- For making a Stand "V" saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)


I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, Google+ or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this or any other post/tutorial given in the blog. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!

December 8, 2017

How to make High Neck Saree Blouse design? FREE Pattern

Hello everyone,
I am back with one more pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a stylized High neckline saree blouse with armhole princess line. This pattern was requested by one of the subscribers who had sent me below given design for reference.
Subscriber requested design
Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori BlouseOne Piece Katori Blouse and also a simple stylised Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse.

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of yet another stylized High Neck Saree Blouse.

High neck saree blouse pattern will have armhole princess line in front and Chinese collar with a stripe design around neckline. This blouse will have a back opening.

* The pictures and instructions are offered here for free. Please don't repost any of my content without permission. Thanks!

To make a stylised High Neck Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.
Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.
7. Shoulder to bust point - Measure from shoulder at neck to bust point. Also called bust height.
8. Round Neck - Measure around the neck touching front collar bone moderately tight.


Steps of drafting:- 

BACK -


0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 2 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
1-5 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 2 cms
Waist Dart -
1-6 = 1/10 Round Bust - 1 cm
6-7 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
7-8 = Midpoint of 6-7
8-9 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 6-9-7 in slant line for dart

0-10 & 2-11 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
10-11 = Join in straight line
10-12 = Down by 2 cms
0-13 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm
0-14 = 1 cm

Join 13-14 for Neck curve
12-3 for Arm curve
12-13 for Shoulder
3-5 for Side seam


FRONT -
STEP- 1
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms (for shaping)
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 & 2-5 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 = Join in straight line
2-6 & 1-7 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 4 cms
Waist Dart -
2-8 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
8-9 = 2 cms & 8-10 = 2 cms (dart width)
8-11 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 9-11-10 in slant line for dart

0-12 & 3-13 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
12-13 = Join in straight line
12-14 = Down by 2 cms
13-15 = Up by 2.5 cms
0-16 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm
0-17 = 1/6 Round Neck + 1 cm

Join 16-17 for Neck curve
4-15-14 for Arm curve
4-7-6 for Side seam

Side seam Dart -
4-20 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
18-19 = 2 cms (dart width)
19-20 = Midpoint of 18-19
20-21 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 18-21-19 in slant line for dart

- Draw straight line from 11 up towards shoulder to mark 22 (refer STEP-1 FRONT image).
22-23 = Mark shoulder to bust point measurement.
23-24 = Mark 1/2 distance between bust point by drawing horizontal line towards centre front.

Armhole Dart marking -
4-25 = 1/3rd of 4-14
(*measure front armhole curve with measure tape & whatever is "x" measurement, take it's 1/3rd)
{for example; if front armhole is 15 cms, then it's 1/3rd will be 5 cms}
- Join 25-23 with a line to mark armhole dart.
- Mark midpoint on this slant line & draw perpendicular of 1 cm on it (refer STEP-1 FRONT image).
- Draw a curve from 25 to 23 passing through this perpendicular. Red curve marked in STEP-1 is armhole dart.

STEP - 2
Marking of Armhole Princess Line -
- Cut on curve of 25-23 & fold side seam dart (i.e. 18-21-19).
  *When side seam dart is folded, armhole dart slit will open.

STEP - 3
- Extend waist dart till bust point. i.e. join 9-23 and 10-23' to form princess line.

STEP - 4
- Mark & trace armhole princess line pieces i.e.
For Side panel - trace 4-25-23-9-6-4 and
For Centre Panel - trace 25'-14-16-17-2-10-23'-25'.
STEP - 5
Marking of Neckline on Centre Panel -
- Mark 1/2 of shoulder and from there go slant towards centre front of blouse depending on desired neck depth (refer STEP-5 FRONT image)
- Mark a square neckline from 1/2 shoulder to neck depth.
* tip: when marking a square neckline draw slightly slant line down from shoulder and not straight down. This way your final neckline will fall as a square shape on body.

STEP - 6
Making of Chinese collar -
1-2 = 1/2 Round Neck + 0.5 cm
1-3 = 3 cm
1-2 = 3-4
1-3 = 2-4
Join 2-4 & 3-4 to make a collar draft.

Fabric strips between Chinese collar and square neckline -
- Fabric strips with ready width of 1 cm will be stitched between neckline and collar.
- Number of strips to be stitched will depend on the neck shape and front neck measurement.
- Detailed explanation will be given in the stitching video.


Fabric used:- For making a High Neck saree blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.
If you liked it then Pin it!☺

If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, Google+ or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on 
Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / 

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this or any other post/tutorial given in the blog. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!
I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this post/tutorial. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!

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