14 June 2017

Flutter sleeve Romper - sewing tutorial & FREE pattern (PART-2)

Hello everyone,
This post is a continuation of my previous post (i.e. PART-1) where I have explained how to make a paper pattern  and cutting of Girl's Romper with Flutter Sleeve for a 2 year old.
Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer

In this post (i.e. PART-2), I have shown how to stitch the Girl's Romper.
Start by making the Flutter sleeves.
Stitching of Romper Flutter Sleeve & Top:-
Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
  • Keep 2 pieces of sleeve right side facing each other and stitch outer curve at 1 cm. Then trim the seam at 0.5 cm and give slits on curve at a distance of 2 cms. (* when giving slits on curve don't cut on the stitch line).
Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
  • Then turn the sleeves inside out and iron on the stitched curve. To hold the stitch curve, you can do an edge machining or any design stitch on outer curve of sleeves.
  • Do gather stitching on inner side of sleeve curves as shown and pull the stitches gradually to form gathers.
Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
  • Attach button stand bands on both sides of Centre back as shown in above image.
  • Cut these button stands on straight grain of fabric.
  • Later, on Left side we will stitch the buttons & on right side we will make the button holes.

Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
  • Place Front, Back and both Flutter sleeves flat open as shown above.
  • Stitch one side of sleeve to back arm curve and other side to front arm curve at 1 cm.
  • These stitch lines will be on inner side / wrong side of garment.
Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
  • Once the sleeves are attached to Front & back, finish the arm curves by stitching bais band (3 cm width) at 1 cm over the stitched sleeves as shown above.
 
Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
    • In above image I have shown a more magnified view of bais band attachment in 2 STEPS.
    • STEP-1 - shows bais band attached at 1 cm over the sleeve & arm curve.
    • STEP-2 - shows folding other open edge of bais band 1 cm in to do design stitch from one end to other of arm curve.
    • Finish all 4 arm curves in same way.
    Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
    • Once the arm curves are finished, stitch bais band (3 cms width) on neckline at 1 cm.
    • Fold the band 1 cm in at starting and ending of button stands as shown.
    Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
    • Once stitched at 1 cm, trim the seam to 0.5 cm & give slits at a distance of  2cms (slits will help in folding the band inside).
    • For neck piping, keep 0.5 cm on outer & inner side of neck & fold remaining 0.5 cm inside, iron well and do hemming / slip stitch.
    Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
    • Stitch both side seams of top at 1 cm. You can either do a plain seam or an overlock (optional).
    Once the Romper Top with Flutter sleeves is ready, stitch the Romper Trouser.

    Stitching of Romper Trouser:-
    Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
      • For stitching the romper trouser, place right side of back pieces facing right side of front pieces.
      • Stitch both inner legs at 1 cm and give notches on curve as shown.
      • Stitch both side seams of trouser at 1 cm.
      • Turn both legs inside out and iron the inner leg seam & side seam on right side.
      • Once the inner legs & side seams are stitched, then stitch the crotch of trouser.

      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
      • Once the crotch is stitched, finish the hem by rolling fabric in by 3 cms and then fold in 1 cm keeping 2 cms ready to do edge machining / design stitch on inner side of trouser hem.
      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
      • Romper Trouser is ready to be attached to Top.
      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
      • Attach top round waist to trouser round waist & stitch around at 1 cm.
      • When attaching the round waist, keep right side of Top facing right side of Trouser.
      • *Side seams of Top & Trouser should face opposite directions on both sides. You can even flatten the side seams.
      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
      • To insert cord / elastic, cut a bais band by measuring the stitched round waist & add 2 cms to it. Keep the ready width of bais band 0.5 cm extra than elastic band width. (For example; if elastic width if 1/2" then add 0.5 cm to 1/2").
      • Also add 1 cm on each side of bais band width for stitching.
      • *When attaching the bais waist band on right side of romper with edge machining, keep the romper waist seam facing the Romper Top.
      • Elastic length measurement will be Round waist - 6 cms.
      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
      Romper with Flutter sleeves is almost ready. Just stitch some buttons & button holes at back button stand. You can put hook and eye  at top to hold both ends of neck piping.

      You can also embellish the front with some embroidery or buttons, though it's optional☺.
      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer

      Voila! Finished Romper!!! Add your photos to the Facebook page so we can all enjoy them.

      Did you like this tutorial? Wouldn’t it be nice to just say “thanks Shraddha for all your work on this”?

      I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment letting me know what you thought about this post/make! Any hints or tips to improve my sewing are always much appreciated too!

      If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook.

      Thank you & Happy Sewing!

      Stay connected on Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / Google+ / YouTube
      *********************

      Flutter sleeve Romper - sewing tutorial & FREE pattern (PART-1)

      Hello everyone,

      After exploring various patterns of some basic Indian fashion garments, I have come up this time with a different post. Yes, it's a sewing tutorial of a very cute summer Romper (with Flutter sleeves) for little girls.

      * Please note this tutorial is divided in 2 parts:-
      (PART-1) - I have explained how to make a paper pattern  & cutting of Girl's Romper with Flutter Sleeve for a 2 year old.
      (PART-2) - I have shown stepwise how to stitch the Girl's Romper with flutter sleeves​.

      Romper is basically a loose, one piece garment combining of a top blouse and shorts / pants, worn by babies and young children. It can be a very pretty spring / summer wear in your little girl's wardrobe.
      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
      In this post (i.e. PART-1), I have explained how to make a very simple baby girl romper Pattern with flutter sleeves draft.
      *The patterns shown in this tutorial are based on measurements of a 2 year old girl.

      Top:-
      Flutter sleeve Romper for summer
      To start with, I have made a child's basic bodice based on measurements of a 2 year old. This bodice is later used as a base to make a flutter sleeve pattern.
      *Note:- 
      1. Since Romper is a loose garment, I have used same bodice for Front & Back. 
      2. Given bodice is based on measurements of a 2 year old child but you can make the Child's Bodice based on your child's age and measurements and then make Flutter sleeve pattern on it.
      Flutter Sleeve:-
      STEP-1:-
      • For making the flutter sleeve pattern, I have used above given child's basic bodice.
      • To mark the new neck curve (blue curve), go right from neck by 1.5 cms.
      • On this new neck curve, mark down 4 cms and join that point to 1/3rd of armhole as shown.
      • Whatever is the length of that new marked slant line, that will be the width of flutter sleeve. I have got the width as 9 cms.
      • Extend neck up by 4 cms to add flare to sleeve.
      • Then extend the shoulder line as shown (brown line) and from that point move up by 5 cms to mark the outer curve of sleeve.
      • Join the top extended points to complete the flutter sleeve pattern.
      • * Please note that you have to keep the width of sleeve as 9 cms throughout.
      • Mark the Flutter sleeve pattern as shown (in blue colour). 
      • Also add 2 to 4 cms down at waist for belt and ease.
      Flutter sleeve Romper for summer
      STEP-2:-
      • Since I have stitched the outer curve of sleeve, I had cut 4 pieces of sleeve on fold (i.e. 2 pieces on each side) but you can cut 2 pieces on fold (i.e. 1 piece on each side) and then do overlock, bidding or even attach lace to finish outer curve of sleeve.
      • Also, I have added an ease of 4 cms at waist line for belt attachment.
      • * I have also added an ease of 2-3 cms at crotch when making trouser pattern.(shown in below image showing crotch length measurement).
      Trouser:-
      • Below given Trouser pattern is made for 2 year old.
      • For making the trouser (bottom) of romper, you can measure the length of crotch from any trouser or legging of your child (as shown in below image) and add 2-3 cms for ease.
      • * I have added an ease of 2 cm (i.e. crotch length is 21 cms + 2 cms ease = 23 cms)
      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
      • To make it for your child, measure the waist of your child's bodice. (for eg; Waist shown in above child's bodice is 15 cms. Your child's bodice waist can be 18 or 20 or 'x' cms).
      • Then mark length of the romper bottom is as per your requirement. I have kept the length as 40 cms (i.e. from waist till below knee).
      • To mark crotch curve, add 4 cms to left and draw the curve as shown.
      • To mark back waist curve, go up by 3 cms from waist line and
      • to mark front waist curve, go down by 1 cm from waist line.
      • Join inner leg from crotch to hem with slant line as shown as your trouser draft of romper is ready.
      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
      Final Pattern Cutting of Girl's Romper with Flutter Sleeve:-
      • Keep seam allowance of 1 cm all over for sleeve (except fold), 1 cm all over for top (except centre front and centre back & 1 cm on all sides of trouser and 3 cms for trouser hemline.
      • 1 cm seam allowance is shown for front curve with black dotted line. Cut front curve only on 2 pieces of trouser.
      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer
      • Shown above are open pieces of Flutter sleeves (2 piece on either sides), Top (Front and Back - 1 piece each) and Trouser (Back - 2 pieces & Front 2 pieces).
      In next post (i.e. PART-2), I have shown how to stitch the Girl's Romper.

      I hope this post was helpful to you.

      Please leave your valuable comments / queries and I will be happy to reply.☺☺

      If you enjoyed this post, I’d be very grateful if you’d help it spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Twitter or Facebook.

      Thank you & Happy Sewing!
      Flutter sleeve Romper pattern for summer

      Stay connected on Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / Google+ / YouTube
      *********************

      9 June 2017

      How to make Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse?

      Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse
      Hello everyone,
      I am back with one more pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a simple yet stylized saree blouse. This pattern is called as the Sun-rays neckline saree blouse. This blouse has a round neckline in Front and Back. It's called as Sun-rays blouse since 'fine pin tucks' are stitched around it's neckline.

      I have taken inspiration for this pattern from my dearest mum's blouse sewing notes.☺ She had done a short course of saree blouse sewing. When I saw this pattern, I found the pin tucks neck design really interesting and so thought of sharing it with all of you.

      Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori Blouse and One Piece Katori Blouse.

      So let's start with step-wise pattern making of a Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse.

      To make a Sun-rays Neckline Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 
      Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
      You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

      Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
      1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
      2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
      3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
      4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
      5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
      6. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

      Steps of drafting:- 
      BACK -
      Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse
      0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
      0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
      2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
      3-4 = Join in straight line
      0-5 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
      5-6 = Draw straight line
      5-7 = Down by 2 cms
      0-8 = 1/10 Round Bust
      Join 7-8 for Shoulder
      0-9 = 1/10 Round Bust (or neck depth)
      Join 8-9 for Neckline
      Join 3-7 for Arm curve
      0-10 = 4 cms
      0-11 = 4 cms
      1-12 = Keep scale from 1 to 10 and draw line to mark 12 as shown
      5-12 = Keep scale from 5 to 11 and draw line to mark 12 as shown.
      * 12 is basically intersection point of both lines (i.e. 1-12 & 5-12)
      2-13 = Down by 3 cms
      13-14 = Join in horizontal line as shown.
      Draw curve from 5-14.
      Mark following points on this curve-
      14-15 = 4 cms
      15-16 = 4 cms
      16-17 = 4 cms
      17-18 = 4 cms
      18-19 = 4 cms
      19-20 = 4 cms
      20-21 = 4 cms
      Join following points by drawing line to mark the Sun-rays effect -
      15-12, 16-12, 17-12, 18-12, 19-12, 20-12, 21-12.
      1-22 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms
      Join 3-22 for Side seam.
      Waist Dart - 
      1-23 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm
      23-24 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
      24-25 = Midpoint of 23-24
      25-26 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm
      Join 23-26-24 to form a dart.

      FRONT -
      Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse
      0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
      1-2 = 2 cms
      0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
      3-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
      4-5 & 2-5 = Join in straight line
      0-6 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
      6-7 = Draw straight line
      6-8 = Down by 2 cms
      0-9 = 1/10 Round Bust
      Join 8-9 for Shoulder
      0-10 = 1/10 Round Bust (or neck depth)
      Join 9-10 for Neckline
      Join 4-8 for Arm curve
      0-11 = 4 cms
      0-12 = 4 cms
      1-13 = Keep scale from 1 to 11 & draw line to mark 13 as shown
      6-13 = Keep scale from 6 to 12 & draw line to mark 13 as shown.
      * 13 is basically the intersection point of both lines (i.e. 1-13 & 6-13)
      3-14 = Down by 3 cms
      14-15 = Join in horizontal line as shown.
      Draw curve from 6-14.
      Mark following points on this curve -
      15-16 = 4 cms
      16-17 = 4 cms
      17-18 = 4 cms
      18-19 = 4 cms
      19-20 = 4 cms
      20-21 = 4 cms
      Join following points by drawing line to mark the Sun-rays effect -
      16-13, 17-13, 18-13, 19-13, 20-13, 21-13.
      2-22 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms
      Join 4-22 for Side seam.
      Waist Dart - 
      2-25 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
      23-25 = 2 cms (dart width)
      24-25 = 2 cms (dart width)
      25-26 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cm
      Join 23-26-24 to form a dart.

      Side seam Dart - 
      4-27 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
      27-28 = 2 cms (dart width)
      28-29 = Midpoint of 27-28
      29-30 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
      Join 27-30-28 to form a dart.

      Centre Front Dart - 
      3-31 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
      31-32 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
      32-33 = Midpoint of 31-32
      33-34 = 1/10 Round Bust
      Join 31-34-32 to form a dart.

      Fabric used:- For making a Sun-rays neckline blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

      You can also sew the fine pin tucks with matching or contrasting color thread.

      I will be updating this post in few days with a sewing video of this beautiful blouse pattern☺.

      Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
      1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
      2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
      3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

      *Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

      I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.

      If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, Google+ or Facebook. Thank you!

      Stay connected on Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / Google+ / YouTube


      I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this or any other post/tutorial given in the blog. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

      Happy Sewing!
      I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this post/tutorial. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!

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