9 June 2017

How to make Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse?

Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse
Hello everyone,
I am back with one more pattern of saree blouse and this time it is a simple yet stylized saree blouse. This pattern is called as the Sun-rays neckline saree blouse. This blouse has a round neckline in Front and Back. It's called as Sun-rays blouse since 'fine pin tucks' are stitched around it's neckline.

I have taken inspiration for this pattern from my dearest mum's blouse sewing notes.☺ She had done a short course of saree blouse sewing. When I saw this pattern, I found the pin tucks neck design really interesting and so thought of sharing it with all of you.

Fyi (in case you are new to little blog of mine☺), in my previous few posts, I have explained pattern making of some very common saree blouse patterns like Simple Sleeveless BlouseBasic Saree Blouse with SleeveDouble Katori Blouse and One Piece Katori Blouse.

So let's start with step-wise pattern making of a Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse.

To make a Sun-rays Neckline Blouse, all measurements must be taken with great care for precise results. 
Some Tip:- It is very important that you wear your best fit under garment (i.e. Bra) in order to get the most accurate measurements. If you think the bra is loose, adjust the straps accordingly, before taking blouse measurements. 
You can wear a padded bra, though its optional.

Measurements required:- (in centimetres)
1. Length of blouse - Measure from centre of front shoulder passing over the bust point to 5 to 6 cms above waist line.
2. Round Chest - Take it by passing the tape measure around the body under the armpits. Make sure that the tape at back is over the shoulder blades, parallel to the ground and not loose or hanging at the back.
3. Round Bust - Measure around the body at the fullest point of bust. Do not allow the measure tape to fall at back. The tape should pass on the most protruding part of bust.
4. Below Round Bust - Measure around the body and below the bust.
5. Shoulder - Measure from back neck bone to shoulder bone.
6. Distance between bust points - It is the distance between two bust points measured horizontally.

Steps of drafting:- 
BACK -
Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
0-2 = 1/5 Round Chest
2-3 & 1-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 3 cms
3-4 = Join in straight line
0-5 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
5-6 = Draw straight line
5-7 = Down by 2 cms
0-8 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 7-8 for Shoulder
0-9 = 1/10 Round Bust (or neck depth)
Join 8-9 for Neckline
Join 3-7 for Arm curve
0-10 = 4 cms
0-11 = 4 cms
1-12 = Keep scale from 1 to 10 and draw line to mark 12 as shown
5-12 = Keep scale from 5 to 11 and draw line to mark 12 as shown.
* 12 is basically intersection point of both lines (i.e. 1-12 & 5-12)
2-13 = Down by 3 cms
13-14 = Join in horizontal line as shown.
Draw curve from 5-14.
Mark following points on this curve-
14-15 = 4 cms
15-16 = 4 cms
16-17 = 4 cms
17-18 = 4 cms
18-19 = 4 cms
19-20 = 4 cms
20-21 = 4 cms
Join following points by drawing line to mark the Sun-rays effect -
15-12, 16-12, 17-12, 18-12, 19-12, 20-12, 21-12.
1-22 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms
Join 3-22 for Side seam.
Waist Dart - 
1-23 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm
23-24 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
24-25 = Midpoint of 23-24
25-26 = 1/10 Round Bust + 1 cm
Join 23-26-24 to form a dart.

FRONT -
Sun-rays Neckline Saree Blouse
0-1 = Length of blouse + 1 cm
1-2 = 2 cms
0-3 = 1/5 Round Chest
3-4 = 1/4 Round Bust + 4 cms
4-5 & 2-5 = Join in straight line
0-6 = Shoulder + 0.5 cm
6-7 = Draw straight line
6-8 = Down by 2 cms
0-9 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 8-9 for Shoulder
0-10 = 1/10 Round Bust (or neck depth)
Join 9-10 for Neckline
Join 4-8 for Arm curve
0-11 = 4 cms
0-12 = 4 cms
1-13 = Keep scale from 1 to 11 & draw line to mark 13 as shown
6-13 = Keep scale from 6 to 12 & draw line to mark 13 as shown.
* 13 is basically the intersection point of both lines (i.e. 1-13 & 6-13)
3-14 = Down by 3 cms
14-15 = Join in horizontal line as shown.
Draw curve from 6-14.
Mark following points on this curve -
15-16 = 4 cms
16-17 = 4 cms
17-18 = 4 cms
18-19 = 4 cms
19-20 = 4 cms
20-21 = 4 cms
Join following points by drawing line to mark the Sun-rays effect -
16-13, 17-13, 18-13, 19-13, 20-13, 21-13.
2-22 = 1/4 Below Round Bust + 3 cms
Join 4-22 for Side seam.
Waist Dart - 
2-25 = 1/2 Distance between bust points
23-25 = 2 cms (dart width)
24-25 = 2 cms (dart width)
25-26 = 1/10 Round Bust + 2 cm
Join 23-26-24 to form a dart.

Side seam Dart - 
4-27 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
27-28 = 2 cms (dart width)
28-29 = Midpoint of 27-28
29-30 = 1/8 Round Bust + 2 cms
Join 27-30-28 to form a dart.

Centre Front Dart - 
3-31 = 1/16 Round Bust + 1 cm
31-32 = 2.5 cms (dart width)
32-33 = Midpoint of 31-32
33-34 = 1/10 Round Bust
Join 31-34-32 to form a dart.

Fabric used:- For making a Sun-rays neckline blouse, you can use thin Poplin, 2 x 2, Khadi, Cambric, Organdy, Taffeta, Satin, Voile etc. However, is you are a beginner, prefer using Cotton Voile fabric. You can also use different fabrics (i.e. plain, printed, embroidered etc) to get variations.

You can also sew the fine pin tucks with matching or contrasting color thread.

I will be updating this post in few days with a sewing video of this beautiful blouse pattern☺.

Some Tips:- when preparing the fabric for draft placement & cutting:--
1) If using basic woven cotton material, then straighten the fabric by slightly stretching it diagonally to align the warp & weft at right angle.
2) Iron the fabric always to make it crease free prior to marking / placing the draft over it.
3) If you are a beginner, prefer making the draft on paper and then pin it to fabric.

*Once you are successful making a basic blouse you can do variations with use of different neckline shapes for front and back; different types of sleeves; try making with different fabrics like, printed/ embroidered/ checkered / striped etc. Do try and let me know in the comments box below. :)

I hope you liked this post of a simple and yet stylized blouse pattern.

If you enjoyed this post, please spread by emailing it to a friend, or sharing it on Pinterest, Twitter, Google+ or Facebook. Thank you!

Stay connected on Facebook / Pinterest / Twitter / Google+ / YouTube


I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this or any other post/tutorial given in the blog. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!☺☺

Happy Sewing!

No comments:

Post a Comment

I love hearing from readers of my blog so please feel free to leave a comment and let me know what you thought about this post/tutorial. Any tips / hints to improve my articles are always much appreciated too!

Follow by Email

Contact Form

Name

Email *

Message *